Dress pattern



0. M. DUNN DRESS PATTERN Dec. 39, 19.

' 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed June 20, 1942 I INVENTOR.- CHARLOTTE/"DUNN Dec.19,, 1944. v c. M. DUNN 2,365,532

DRESS PATTERN Filed June 20, 1942 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTORf CHARLOTTEMflwwv C. M. DUNN DRESS PATTERN Dec. 19, 1944.

4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed June 20, 1942 INVENTOR.

CHARLOTTE M. DUNN BY M N N u D M c DRESS PATTERN 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 FiledJune 20, 1942 INVENTOR.

CHARLOTTE M. Du/v/v BY M Patented Dec. 19, 1944 UNITED STATES PATENTOFFICE DRESS PATTERN Charlotte M. Dunn, Great Neck, N. Y.

Application June 20, 1942, Serial No. 447,812

7 3 Claims. (on. 33-42) This invention relates to dressmaking and hasfor its principal objects the provision of a fundamental or basic ormain pattern which is adapted to be utilized for making dresses in avariety of entirely different styles, as well as the method of utilizingsuch pattern in dressmaking in order to produce such different styles ofdresses. Further objects of the invention are the very substantialsaving of labor and material in the production of such dresses. Otherobjects of the inventio will hereinafter appear.

In the accompanying drawings, in which I have illustrated my improvedpattern and different styles of dresses producible therewith,

Figure 1 is a diagrammatic front elevation of a coat or so-called coatdress; and Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic rear elevation of a coat orso-called coat dress;

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the fundamental pattern employed in theproduction of such dress;

Figs. 4, 5 and 6 are plan views of incidental patterns employedrespectively for the sleeves, the bodice and the upper back panel ofsuch socalled dress;

Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic front elevation; and Fig. 8 is a rear elevationof a different style of dress;

Fig. 9 is a plan view of the fundamental pattern employed in making suchdress and Figs. 10, 11 and 12 are plan views respectively of incidentalpatterns employed in the making of the sleeves, bodice and the backpanel of such dress.

Fig. 13 is a diagrammatic front elevation and Fig. 14 is a diagrammaticrear elevation of another style of dress;

Fig. 15 is a plan view of the fundamental pattern used in making suchdress and Figs. 16 and 17 are plan views respectively of the patternemployed for making the front and rear of each sleeve for such dress;and Fig. 18 is a plan view of the rectangular insert for making thefront insert of such dress;

Fig. 19 is a diagrammatic front elevation; and Fig. 20 is a rearelevation of still another style of dress;

Fig. 21 is a plan'view of the fundamental pattern employed in makingsuch dress;

Fig. 22 is a plan view of the pattern employed for making the waist ofsuch dress and Fig. 23 is a plan view of the pattern used in making thesleeve for such dress. a

In the production of the dress shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings,the funamental pattern A is placed on the right side of the materialselected, for example woolen cloth 54 inches wide in such a manner thatthe edges 0, a extend respectively parallel to the warp and weft fibresof the material. The superimposed pattern and material are then outalong the slit line b which extends inwardly from the apex along acentral radial line to a distance more than one-third the radius of saidpattern, the same terminating in the neighborhood of the waist line, andalso are cut along the curvilinear lines 0, c and d, d while the clothonly is out along the balance of the perimeter or outline of the patternand thereby the cloth sector I having yoke elements 2, 2' is obtained.Sleeves 3, 3, opposing bodice members 4, 4' and the back panelj are thencut from such material to conform to the other three patterns B, C andD.

The cloth sector I is then draped about the body of the person to befitted or about a selected dress form with the slit line b at the centerof the back and the edges a, a are basted together to form a frontcenter seam. The yoke members 2, 2' are then spread apart at the slitline and brought up over the back and carried around the neck of suchperson or dress form and the respective free ends thereof, after firstbeing desirably turned under, are also basted together to form a yoke.The bodice members 4, 4', which are identical, being made from the samepattern, are then applied in position on the dress front with theiredges e vertical and such members are then basted along their edges 1and g respectively to the yokes and to the sector I. Then the back panel5 is inserted and its edges h, h are basted to the respective abuttingedges of the yoke members 2, 2'. The edges of the sleeves, thatcorrespond to the edges 1. 7" of the sleeve pattern B, are then bastedtogether and the sleeves are inserted in position in the armholes andeach basted along its its edge, that corresponds to the edge k of thelatter pattern, to the edges m and c, or c of the bodice members andsector I.

After the garment so draped and fitted on the person or form has beenadjusted, as desired, the edges thereof which have been so basted arestitched together and the bastings removed in the well known manner.

-If the garment shown in Fig. 1 is intended for a coat, the edges, thatcorrespond to the edges a, a of the pattern A, of the sector I areturned under and secured with blind stitches, suitable clasps or othermeans as buttons or a zipper that may be provided for fastening theedges of the coat together. If, however, the garment shown in Fig. 1 isintended for use as a dress then said edges that correspond to the edgesa, a are not turned under but are merely stitched together to form anordinary seam.

To make the dress shown in Figs. 7 and 8, the fundamental 90 sectorpattern E is placed on the selected material, desirably of 54" width inthe same position as was the pattern A when making the dress shown inFig. 1. The material is then out along the slit line b and along theperimeter of the pattern and thereby a cloth sector It is obtainedconforming to the pattern E and having bifurcations H, H on oppositesides of the slit line b. Should the material be but 39" wide, then inlieu of using a 90 sector pattern, a sector pattern of but 45 isemployed and two cloth sectors are cut to conform thereto and stitchedtogether but leaving slit line b open along part of the seam.

Two combined front-sleeve-and-bodice members l2, l2, two back sleevemembers l3, l3 and a center back insert l4 are then cut from suchmaterial to conform to the other three patterns F, G and H,respectively.

The sector it, with its slit line b' at the center front, is then drapedabout the body to be fitted and the edges n, n are basted together toform a back center seam. The bifurcations ii, I I are then passed underthe arms, up the back and brought across the front of the neck to form ayoke, the tips of said bifurcations being turned over and overlappedwith respect to each other and then basted together.

The back sleeve members l3, it are assembled with their respectivefront-sleeve-and-bodice members l2, I2 to form the finished sleeve theabutting edges that correspond to the edges of the patterns F and G,that are designated i, 7 and 7' and 9, being stitched together and thenthe sleeve and bodice members are positioned on the body to be-fittedwith their abutting front edges extending vertically, whereupon thebodice members are basted along their edges p and q to the yoke and tothe inner edges of the bifurcations ll, ll. The center back insert i4 isthen inserted between the divergent bifurcations and its edges h and hare basted thereto along the respective abutting edges of suchbifurcations.

I the dress construction shown in Figs. 13 and 14, the fundamentalpattern comprises a 45 sector K which is employed as hereinafterexplained to produce two cloth sectors of the selected material.

In making a dress from the pattern K, the latter is placed on theselected material which is desirably 39" in width in such a positionthat the central radius will be in alignment with the warp or so-calledstraight of the material and consequently the opposing edges 1', 1' willextend along the bias of the material. Duplicate cloth sections l5 arethen made from this pattern by cutting the material along the linecorresponding to the arcuate bottom of the pattern, the center front andcenter back lines 8, s', the neck lines t, t and center slit line u.Front and back sleeve members l6, l6, two of each and a center frontinsert ll are then cut from such material to conform to the patterns L,L and M respectively.

The two sectors l5 are then draped about the body to be fitted sothat'the two slit lines in will lie at the sides along the respectivehip lines and when so positioned, the sectors are basted together alongthe front and back center seam lines s, s. The bifurcation l8 of onesector and I8 of the other are carried up over the front of the bodywhile the other bifurcation l8 and i8 of the same sectors are carried upover the back. The sleeve members l6, it, after being assembled withtheir corresponding edges abutting each other, are permanently stitchedtogether to form a complete'sleeve and are then inserted in position andthe edges 2) and w are basted to the edges of the spaced bifurcations l8, l8. The sleeves are basted to abutting edges of the bifurcationswhile the abutting edges 2; and w are basted together. The shoulderstraps i9, it are brought across the shoulder and basted together at theshoulder line. Finally the front piece I! is basted to the center frontof the garment.

To make the dress shown in Figs. 19 and 20, a sector pattern ispreferably employed if the dress material is without nap or without airreversible pattern but otherwise it is desirable to employe a 45sector pattern and in the latter case duplicate cloth sectors are cutand joined together'except along the portion thereof corresponding tothe slit line of the pattern N. Whichever pattern is employed, whethera. 90 or 45 sector, the edge a: should be placed parallel to the warp orso-called straight of the materiaL' When a 90 sector pattern isemployed, such as shown in Fig. 21, the cloth sector 20 is formedtherefrom by cutting the material along lines corresponding to thebottom of the pattern, the irregular marginal pattern outline a:, x, theshoulder lines 1 y and slit line z, which latter as shown extends on thebias. Combined bodice and scarf members 2| are then cut from thematerial to conform to the pattern outline of the pattern 0 which, asshown, make provision for the arm hOle 0 and the neck line O Two sleevemembers 22 corresponding to the pattern P are also cut from the clothand these are permanently stitched together along their lateral edges.

The cloth sector 20 so prepared is draped about the body to be fitted insuch a manner that the slit line 2 is disposed so as to extend upwardlyalong the right hip line. The bifurcation of sector 29 that correspondsto bifurcation 21 of the pattern N, is passed around the back up to theleft shoulder and the bifurcation of sector 20 corresponding to thebifurcation 21 is passed upwardly across the chest to the left shoulderand then the bifurcations of the sector 20 are basted together at theshoulder line and the edges of the sector 20, corresponding to thestraight portions of the pattern outlines :r, :r', are basted together.

The combined bodice and scarf member 2| is then applied to the body insuch a manner that the armhole O thereof fits beneath the arm pit of thebody being fitted and the front half extends upwardly across the chestand across the left shoulder while the other half thereof extendsupwardly across the back with the scarf end thereof overlapping thescarf of the other end of such member 2i. The said combined bodice andscarf member is then basted in position to the adjoining members whilethe scarf ends are joined together at the shoulder line.

It is, of course, to be understood that when the dress is finished theseams which have been basted together are permanently stitched andbastings removed and also the usual or desired hems are formed andstitched.

Among the advantages of th pattern, the method of dressmaking and thedress made in Having thus described my invention, what I claim is: I

1. A fundamental garment pattern for use in making a variety of garmentsof diflerent styles, comprising a geometrical sector of sheet materialhaving an arcuate bottom edge, a central radial slit-line displayedthereon and extending inwardly from the apex of said sector to adistance approximating the distance of the waist line of the desiredgarment from the bottom of such garment.

2. A tundamental garment pattern for use in making a variety of garments01 different styles.

comprising a'geometrical sector or sheet material having a centrairadial slit-line displayed thereon extending inwardly from the apex ofthe sector a distance approximating the distance of the waistline of thedesired garment from the bottom of such garment and said pattern havingdisplayed thereon symmetrical rectilineal lines fiililtending outwardlyfrom the top of said slite. V

3. A fundamental garment pattern for use in making a variety of garmentsof different styles, comprising a geometrical sector of sheet materialhaving a central radial slit-line displayed thereon extending inwardlyfrom the apex of the sector a distance approximating the distance of thewaist line of the garment desired from the bottom of such garment andsaid pattern having also displayed thereon symmetrical rectilineal linesextending outwardly from the top of said slit-line and similarcurvilineal opposed lines on either sid of said slit-line and othercurvilineal lines similar to each other extending inwardly from thelateral edges of each said sector adjacent the top thereof.

' v CHARLOTTE M. DUNN.

